Extant Pisa gown probably from a contemporary of Eleonora de Toledo di Medici from the mid 1500s and my version. The skirt is cut based on the skirt of Eleonora's burial gown without the train but the bodice is separate from the skirt. Since I like my costumes to be as versatile as possible, the sleeve puff also called baragoni is separate. It is unlikely that the extant garment is constructed with separate sleeves and baragoni.
Just before Bella announced the Realm of Venus Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge (IRCC), I started a gown based on the Pisa gown. So, I put off some of the finishing touches for the Pisa gown to work on the IRCC project. I had made the skirt, bodice and reversible long sleeves with wool interlining. I had an occasion coming up to wear the gown and knew that the sleeves would be too hot, and I wanted to have the small sleeve top puff know as baragoni. I am all about making my costumes as versatile as possible. The existing long sleeves attached to the bodice shoulder straps with jewelry fastenings called lobster claws at the top of the sleeves and the rings from ring and toggle fasteners sewn on the underside of the shoulder straps and set back from the edge. So, I got to thinking.... What if I make the baragoni so that they have their own lobster claw fasteners at the top edge. Then I could have several different looks - bodice alone, bodice with baragoni, bodice with baragoni and long sleeves, bodice with long sleeves. Next I took the long sleeve pattern traced the top of the sleeve, moved the seam to the underam and added 1" of width at the under arm to insure it would fit over the long sleeve and marked a line 1.5" below the underarm seam which was going to be where the puff stopped. I decided to use fashion fabric for the lining and planned to fold the lining up and over the raw edge of the puff to make a cuff at the bottom of the baragoni.
The cuff was going to have trim stitched on it, so I laid the trim on the paper to determine how long to make the pattern.
Ok, so the sleeve foundation pattern was done. Next the sleeve puff. I traced the top of the sleeve base pattern onto another paper and cut it off horizontally 1.5" plus two seam allowances below the underarm. I decided I didn't want the extra volume of puff under my armpits. I slashed the pattern on the vertical 1" grid marks and laid it on my gridded cutting mat separating the pieces by 1". I placed tissue paper over the spread pieces and added a little more top and bottom for more puff and cut out a sleeve puff pattern.
I cut the sleeve foundation out of the fashion fabric and a striped canvas to use the the stripe in the fabric to mark where the lower edge of the sleeve puff should be attached. I cut the sleeve puff out of fashion fabric and three layers of netting for each sleeve. Then I put gathering stitches through the fashion fabric and the 3 layers of netting at the top and bottom of the puff. I gathered the first one up and basted it to the striped canvas and it looked like football shoulder pad extensions - way too large - it looked awful. So I took a lot off the top and some off bottom so the puffs would not look like they were on steroids.
Ran gathering stitches through fashion fabric and three layers of netting at the top and bottom. Basted the puff to the striped canvas top and bottom. Then starting at the top center of the sleeve I laid my trim over the puff, cut it to whatever looked good, and pinned it down, and basted over the tops and bottoms of the trim.
Next I put the fashion fabric foundation piece of fashion fabric right sides to the striped canvas with applied trim paned puff and sewed the top of the shoulder seam. I pinked the seam and under-stitched it to help keep the bulk from rolling to the outside. While it was still flat, I pre-pressed up the cuff of striped fabric and fashion fabric to the outside making sure it was wide enough to top-stitch a piece of trim on.
I opened the sleeve up, and sewed the under arm seam making it into a tube. After carefully pressing the seam open, I pushed the fashion fabric foundation to the inside of the sleeve and folded it with the striped canvas up to form the cuff and cover the raw edges of the bottom of the puff. I basted it down and top stitched the trim at the bottom. The only hand sewing involved was attaching the lobster claw clasps to the inside top of the sleeve head. I wore the bodice with baragoni last weekend but did not take any photos. Will add them as soon as I get some photos.