Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Hanging Sleeve for Doublet

 This image is from Moda A Firenze and the caption says it is a Neopolitan woman.  I am making hanging sleeves similar to hers - the design elements I want are the horizontal and vertical opening as well as the picadills at the wrist opening.  To draft the pattern, I took the undersleeve pattern (based on page 114 in Patterns of Fashion) widened it by 1" at the lowest point of the underarm, and 1" at the top of the sleeve head, lengthened it by 5", and added a bulge in the seam similar to the hanging sleeve on page 123 of patterns of fashion.  Then is cut the pattern in half vertically and cut a horizontal line about 4" lower than the underarm seam.  The fabric I am using is a subtly striped taffeta that is pre-quilted.  For the picadills at the wrists, I cut a piece of plain taffeta 5" high by the width of the sleeve piece.  Folded the 5" in half lengthwise and stitched up 2" from the wrist edge to form the tabs.

 From right to left we have:
  1. right side of fashion fabric, picadills stitched
  2. right side of fashion fabric, picadills stitched and excess fabric trimmed
  3. picadills turned right side out as seen from the wrong side of fashion fabric
  4. picadills turned and pressed
Next, I stitched up the vertical elbow seam, cut off one seam allowance, and  flat felled seam by hand.
Then I bound all raw edges (except for the arm hole opening) with bias cut taffeta.  Stitch folded taffeta on the right side, fold to the back, pin, stitch in the ditch.  The I applied braided trim next to the taffeta binding and across the top of the picadills catching the lining fabric. Then tack part of the horizontal area and a short portion at the top of the sleeve together by hand.  Now it is ready to apply the lacing strip.
 I will use three beads for buttons at each wrist to match the bead buttons on the center front of the doublet.  Since the hanging sleeves are decorative and will not be closed around the wrists, I think I will stitch through all layers and omit button holes or loops.  Can always add those in later if I change my mind!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Doublet Baragoni Woven Mockup - Second Attempt

Neither the 3-part nor the 4-part braided baragoni mockups looked like the portraits.  Time to come up with another concept.  I discussed it with some of my sewing, quilting and costuming friends.  Thanks for your suggestions Molly, Angel, Peggy and Liz!  Years ago we had done a Christmas ornament project with the children that involved weaving folded strips together into a heart shape like this: